![]() 08/03/2014 at 10:17 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Suck it.
-Cquence Absolute dimpled and slotted rotors
-Hawk HPS pads
-Valvoline Synthetic Dot3 & Dot4 High Temp (480° boiling point) brake fluid
Post-Install Note: The rotors make a really cool sound when being broken in. Sort of like a turbo chatter, but not as high pitched. It goes away as the pads seat and cool down, but when they're hot it sounds pretty dang cool hearing what I imagine is the gases being expelled.
![]() 08/03/2014 at 10:27 |
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Dear low speed around town brake fade: hi. Panda life!
![]() 08/03/2014 at 10:30 |
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Care to elaborate?
![]() 08/03/2014 at 10:33 |
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I get brake fade after start stop around town for half an hour or more. Will be doing a brake fluid flush and maybe new rubber lines and master cylinder per an inspection. The joy of not so meticulously maintained used cars.
![]() 08/03/2014 at 10:43 |
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Eh, I've got a little mushiness in my system, even after installing the new pads and rotors and doing a full bleed-flush-bleed. I figure that it's just a 23-year old car with old parts, so I'm gonna replace the master cylinder in the coming months once everything else on my immediate repair/replace list is done.
![]() 08/03/2014 at 11:10 |
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Mine's only 9 years old but after 30 mins in city traffic a 10-0 stop became a change of underwear moment even though it was fine earlier and later on after a run on the motorway. I checked the fluid after and it looks like 2 year old motor oil... Time for a change methinks.
![]() 08/03/2014 at 11:27 |
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I haven't had any problems with that, and have been running HPS's for like 4 years on the Mustang. Could be the difference in cars though.
Edit: I'm an idiot, and didn't really read your comment. I thought you were saying you weren't having any braking until the pads warmed up. Derp
![]() 08/03/2014 at 11:27 |
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I'm curious as to why you would go to the trouble of replacing the brake lines with new rubber instead of braided stainless? Cost?
![]() 08/03/2014 at 11:30 |
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Because cheapskate. I'll only replace them if they look old or perished. Also it's only used for about town and the occasional B road run. I doubt I'd notice a huge difference with steel lines in that case.
![]() 08/03/2014 at 11:32 |
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Haha I wish I had performance braking kit to worry about. My comment was a little ambiguous anyways.
![]() 08/03/2014 at 12:11 |
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How much did this cost? I'm going to upgrade my brakes on the Z. I want those rotors!
![]() 08/03/2014 at 13:14 |
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I got everything on sale over the course of a couple of weeks. Total cost for everything you see was right at $330.
![]() 08/03/2014 at 21:31 |
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I don't think the steel lines are terribly expensive. Maybe even less than the slotted rotors.
![]() 08/04/2014 at 10:06 |
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Did you bleed it again after driving it a bit? Sometimes driving shakes bubbles loose in the system, so you might try bleeding it again and find that helps.
![]() 08/04/2014 at 10:36 |
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I might actually take it to a shop and have them bleed it for me. Our carport is currently impossible to work in, as there's two motorcycles in various states of 'in pieces', meaning I can only fit on axle onto the concrete at the time and only have two jack stands. It takes nearly two hours to bleed the brakes right now.
![]() 08/04/2014 at 11:10 |
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ha ha, always good to have projects!
I hate bleeding brakes